Antique & Collector Car
Condition Classes
 

Class One - Excellent
For antique and collector cars, the car is probably a "body off" restoration piece that is very close to perfect. All components are either original or appear as new and are fully operational. This car is a top show winner and is not driven, but transported to shows by trailer. This car is almost "one of a kind". The vehicle is completely detailed including the engine compartment, interior trim, wiring, suspension, paint, and frame. This particular class of vehicle is very rare and does not apply to "factory road cars".

Class Two  - Very Good
This car is well restored with an eye for detail. The interior and exterior show minimal wear and it runs and rides smoothly. The car is driven very little, maybe 800 to 1,000 miles per year. This class is a slight grade below Class One. A Class Two vehicle has not been detailed to the extent that a Class One has been. This class (Class Two) has minimal evidence of use and wear.  It is considered "cherry" or "mint". A "factory road car" in this class would have very low mileage, be garaged kept, and have detailed service records.

Class Three  - Good
This class represents most collector and factory road cars. This class of car is the most common. A Class Three is termed a "20 footer". From 20 feet it may look very good. Close inspection, however, would reveal some worn interior trim and less than perfect paint (slightly worn and maybe faded). This car is completely operational. It is driven often (if not daily), runs great and is enjoyed by its owner.

Class Four  - Fair to Poor
This car is in need of considerable work. It is a "driver". The owner may have big plans for a major restoration or repair. The body is solid although there may be some body damage and some rust. It needs work in and out. This car is a "100 footer". At a 100 feet, you can still tell it needs a lot of work. These are the cars that are driven around in "primer" or have the padding coming out of the seats.

These are the Condition Classes that are utilized as
a guide in establishing "value".

There are other factors that are taken into consideration when determining "value".
One of them is:

Mileage - Although mileage is a relative factor when determining value it needs to be considered none the less. Low mileage in itself, does not always have the positive effect that you might think. For example, a 1968 Corvette that has been sitting idle for 10 years with 43,000 original miles on it has two drawbacks regardless of the mileage. Number one, it has been sitting idle for a long period of time which presents its own set of problems. Number two, the 1968 was the first year for this particular body style and is known for its quirks and complications. The mileage is low, but other factors may offset it.

A quote by Norm Wetzel on "high" mileage:
"High mileage on any vehicle creates a marketing and evaluation problem that does not always follow the same pattern or have the same result. If a high mileage vehicle looks like its been "through the mill", then obviously this will decrease the value dramatically. But, if a visual inspection indicates that there are no worn brake or accelerator pedals, no worn upholstery or trim panels, a nice clean and original engine compartment, spotless chrome and paint, and above all a complete service record of the vehicle, then an optimal value can still be secured with the right private party".

What Condition Class is your car?