Checking it out!
Doing it on your own!
By Jim Wetzel of Car Values Plus

Checking out any car is not that hard if you have a system that you use each time. You don't have to follow it exactly, but by doing so may save you some money and aggravation later. When you go, bring a clipboard, pencil, paper to write on, a rag (we don't suggest using your handkerchief) and a penlight (your glasses too). You won't look like a geek, you'll look like you mean business!

First things first!

The title is the bible! It's important to inspect this document closely (remember your glasses?). When in doubt, check it out...I always say. Look at the title carefully. Has it been altered or does it look bogus? Does the owner "flash" it at you to avoid your scrutiny? Get your hands on that paper and read it. If the car has been salvaged, it might say (not always). Check the owner's name. Same person you're talking to? Hmmm? Look at the mileage? Is it close to the mileage on the car? Is there a leinholder? If so, they have an interest in that car and will continue to unless the current owner can show they no longer have an interest (proof they were paid). Not the least, check the VIN and description of the car. Does the title reflect the car you're looking at?

Is it the right car? Sounds a little silly, doesn't it? Not really though, because if the numbers don't match, don't bother with the rest of the inspection. Take the registration or title (the title is best) and make sure that you locate and check the Vehicle Identification Number on the car (VIN). If the VIN is not visible on the dash (left side top) then look for it on the left door jamb, left lock pillar (where the drivers door latches), left engine apron, or firewall (the panel behind the engine). The numbers should match exactly. If they don't, if they are missing or have been tampered or altered, the car has a problem.

Do a "walk-a-round"! Now that you have determined that you have the right car, you can start your inspection process. Take your time. It won't be easy because you will probably have the owner (and maybe some kids too) following you like the Pied Piper. After making sure the ID of the car is correct, do a "walk-around". That's just what it means. Walk around the car and look for obvious signs of "wear and tear". Areas of primer, big dents or rust, parts missing, cracked glass or lights. Open the trunk and hood and leave them open. Scope out the interior and look for severe conditions there (holes in the seat covers, cracked trim or dash, that type of thing). Make a mental note or if you are like me, write your observations down.

Now the real fun begins!

The interior inspection. First thing, open the driver's door and stick your head in. Stinky? You either have a smoker's car or your breath is backing up. First off, look at the door jamb for service stickers. The mileage on these stickers will reveal a little history about what was done, but even more important, what the correct mileage is. Look where the driver sits, that's the most used area of the car. Is the seat worn or are there springs or matting sticking out? Sit there. Do you sink in a hole? Rock back and forth? Did you pitch over backwards? If the seat is manual, try all the levers. If it has power seats, checking comes later. If you are buying this car, you are going to be sitting therea lot. Look in front of you. Are all of the mirrors in place? Any cracks or stone chips in the windshield? Look at the dash. Any cracks or bite marks? Are all of the knobs and switches there? Don't bother checking them now (or the radio), that comes later. Very important, look at the odometer. Are the numbers in a even line? If they are uneven or look hacked up beware, you might have a "setback". Make a big note on that one. Look up. Is the headliner intact? Are there tears or stains (don't ask!)? Pull out the ashtray and lighter. If it's a smoker's car, you'll know now for sure. Check the front carpet, especially by where you sitting (bring a penlight, it beats squinting). Is the carpet stained, worn, burn holes, or somewhat clean? A carpet will tell you a lot about how a car was maintained (similar to a carpet in a house). While you are down there, look at that all important brake pad. If you are being told that the car has 14,000 original miles on it, you should not see a severe wear pattern on the brake pad. Next close the door (watch the seller's fingers!). Put your arm on the armrest. Is it there? If it is, is it loose, worn, or held on with sheet metal screws? Check both front door trim panels. Are they intact? Well, you just checked out the front seat area. Now go sit in the back and do the same look-a-round.

The exterior inspection. Your initial walk-a-round gave you an overview as to the exterior condition. Not it's time to fine tune. I circle the car in a clockwise motion. I don't know why, but I do. I stand at the left rear of the car and look down the side. See a lot of waves and warps? Chances are, there is some body work there. Look at the moldings. See any overspray or tape marks? You've got a car that was in the body shop. While in the back of the car, look underneath and in the wheel well. Any rust? Any fresh undercoat that might cover a collision or rust repair? Any evidence of welding? They are all clues that might indicate a structural problem due to rust or potential complications from a prior collision repair. Buyer beware! Now walk to the front of the car, looking at the body as you walk. Open the doors again and check the door frames. Any rust or indications of a different color? A different color could either indicate a paint job or used doors were put on at some point. Now you are in the front facing the car. Check the front end sheet metal alignment. Are the gaps even? Does the back of the hood hit the cowl panel? Push down on the car (careful, ask first, some owners are touchy). Any creaks? Does it bounce and keep bouncing? Kneel down and look under the car and make the same observations as the rear regarding rust, welding, and fresh undercoat. While under there, take a look at how much oil is leaking or blowing out of the engine. The bottom of the engine will tell you a lot about how tight the drive-train is. Look at the steering linkage and drive axles (if front wheel drive). See if  you can see any worn rubber boots (not the kind fisherman wear) or cracked balljoint bushings? Now, before the seller's dog starts sniffing you in an embarrassing spot, stand up and repeat the inspection down the right side and rear. Next, we move to checking the mechanical functions.

Fun, ain't it?

The mechanical inspection. I always try to inspect a car when it's cold or being started for the first time that day. When you are checking the body, put your hand on the hood to see if the car has been running prior to you getting there. If the owner knows he has a "smoker", he may run the car prior to your arrival (you mean some people would do that?). A cold engine will give you more clues about worn rings and valve seats than a warm engine. A "hot" engine is a lot "tighter" because metal expands when heated plus any oil sitting in the combustion chamber will have burned off (for the most part). Open the hood and stand in the front of the car. Have the owner start the car. Does it start right away? Look at the back of the car. Any smoke? What color is it?. The dark blue smoke that is trailing over the house you are standing by, indicates oil burning from worn piston rings and/or valve seats. Is the engine running smooth? What noises do you hear? Valve problems make a clacking sound. A deeper rapping sound could indicate worn piston or crankshaft bearings (main). A serious matter, dollar wise. Take a good look at the engine compartment. Duct tape and coat hangers are not usually supplied by the factory. Is the engine compartment clean? Are the hoses cracked? If you can, check the air filter. If it's black, chances are the car has not been well maintained. Now your rag comes in handy. Have the engine shut off (you do need those fingers). Check the oil and take a good look at it. Real dark oil is OK, but make sure there are no little moisture dots (remember your glasses?). Water in the oil means a bad head gasket or even worse, a crack in the block. Next, check the transmission fluid. This fluid should not be black, but red in color. Smell it. If it smells burnt or it makes you want to pull your head back, more than likely the transmission has a problem.  Next, the final wrap up.

The test drive. Buying a car without a test drive, is like salting your food before you taste it. Sit in the car. Now is the time to check the knobs and their operations. Radio, fans, air conditioning, heat, etc...check them all. You want to know if these are functioning. Especially, while the owner is sitting next to you. The test drive is important for obvious reasons. First, gun the throttle a little bit and look out the rear window. Any smoke? When the car begins to move, feel the shift pattern of the transmission. Is it smooth? Any slipping? If the car has a manual transmission, does the clutch slip? Listen to the engine. If it sounds like a Latin marimba band, the car has a problem. Move the steering wheel back and forth (don't get too carried away with this maneuver). Did the car lean excessively (if after this, the owner is on your lap...there was either too much "lean" or he has more on his mind then selling his car!)? Did the steering feel spongy or sloppy? Both sensations are indications of worn steering apparatus. Check the brakes by stepping on the pedal from a good roll (don't get rear ended in the process). Does the pedal pulse? Does the brake pressure feel OK? When you come to a stop, try reverse. There have been instances when people have purchased cars with no reverse, not a good thing when you need to park.

You did it! Well, you completed your inspection! Now comes the negotiation (that's another article). After completing the above, you will have a pretty good idea about the condition of the car. Your notes will help you to establish a fair value for the car (we can do that too) and at the same time gain you some leverage in your negotiations.

Good luck and happy motoring!
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